Groundfish Letter #1
That’s certainly not fish
The boat I was on was fishing in the western Aleutians. We were steaming to a new spot and I woke up to the smell of rotten eggs. It was not a natural boat smell. I went out into the galley, looked around, opened the engine room door and smelled nothing. Then I went out on deck and I could really smell it, so I climbed up to the wheelhouse and asked the skipper, He looked over and said “Can you smell that”. Dumb question. “Thank the Volcano.”
We were on the north side of a volcanic island. When it got light it was clear enough to see the steam and smoke blowing off the top.
Every 2-3 days we’d return to that spot. At times if you wanted to sleep you had to stick your nose into a pillow. But luckily (for me and the crew who didn’t like the idea of working next to a smoking gun) fishing wasn’t so hot so we moved on. How many other jobs are going to have you working in sight of an active volcano?
Groundfish Letter #2
Interesting characters and beyond
I trained for groundfish in Dec. of 2002. My first assignment was a 160’ pacific cod longliner. Even though I had over 700 days observing on crab and scallop boats, I was a bit nervous about groundfish observing. The work requirements for groundfish are more strict, and the job actually required cutting, weighing and identifying many more species than on a crab boat. I flew out to Dutch and met the ships engineer. He showed me my bunk in a comfortable 2 man stateroom and quickly informed me that I was on my own for food because the cook, Capt. and most of the crew were not going to fly in for another 2 days. A quick call to my contractor and they said “no cook, no food on the boat? Then it’s okay to get meals in town, we’ll reimburse yeah.”
However, that was the most difficult situation to deal with for the next 2 months. The Capt was as likely to try and open up a discussion on Colonialism in Africa as he was to talk about fishing and the crew were experienced and professional. The only real difficulty came in trying to get some sample fish from the “bleeder”. The bleeder cuts the cod so they’ll bleed out on the way to the factory. (It makes for a higher quality product). Unfortunately, for me, several of the bleeders didn’t speak any English. But after a couple of quick Spanish lessons from the Mexican asst. engineer, I was asking for “diez pescado por favor” and everything was aces.
Boats and cruises have come and gone, and thinking back I can’t really remember a trip where there were not at least a few interesting people or happenings worthwhile to remember and write home about. Like the guy who was the subject of a Paul Harvey report cuz he was the only man in Alaska, bitten by a poisonous rattlesnake. When he was in the hospital he met a nurse and married her ten days later. Or the born again Christian covered with gang tattoos. Or the guy that had been on two boats that sank but he was still fishing because he loved the ocean.
And the sights you see… nowhere else on earth. A friend of mine is really into birds and said that if he thought he could see a shortailed albatross, he’d sign up and go out observing. As he said this I remembered that somewhere at home in a box, with a thousand other pictures, is one of 3, shortailed albatross gathered around a piece of card board floating behind the boat.
Then there is the thrill of returning to town, knowing you’re finished with a trip and will soon be calling friends and family to let them know it’s really not that bad “out there”. And after 2 days in town you’re ready to go back out to sea.
Groundfish #3
Tales and whales
I’ve been an observer on ground fish boats for 3 years and have had many, amazing experiences. 2 years ago I was on a longliner, tallying fish as they came aboard, and for half a day a pod of orcas followed the boat. One in particular, repeatedly dove on the line looking for Halibut. It was lucky for the boat that we weren’t trying to catch Halibut. During that same trip, after refueling in St. Paul, we steamed back to the fishing grounds on a flat calm night and the crew spent 20 minutes looking at a particularly bright star, trying to decide if it was a planet, star, or aliens. It made for something new to talk about after being with the same crew for 25 days. That trip lasted 45 days with an 8-hour stop in St. Paul.
I think the greatest fear among new observers is meeting the crew/Capt., and getting along with them. Certainly I was concerned about this when I started, but I can honestly say my experiences have been good ones. The crew knows who you are and that you’ve got a job to do, and with few exceptions, they let you go about your business. Some crews you get to know all of their kids’ names, all their ex-wives names, and maybe the number of times a guy’s been to jail. Even guys with a questionable past can be great to be on a boat and work with, even though you probably will never see them again. Some boat crews are quiet and all business. On some boats it has seemed that when I’m not working, I’m laughing, either at practical jokes between the crew, or stories they’ve told, or just the regular day-to-day interactions among them. Aside from the experience of being on the boat in the middle of the Bering Sea, meeting these guys and given the chance, getting to know the crew can be an experience in itself. (But everyone’s experience will be different.)
Being a fisheries observer is a great experience on the water. I’ve always loved the ocean, and to be able to work in my field (of natural resources), to do it on the water and make good money is awesome. After being at sea, coming into shore has allowed me to get so much more from my time on land. A walk to the store, a phone call or letter from home, or some peace and quiet are much more appreciated. However, after 5-6 weeks on land, I look forward to the 24/7 work, the quiet (sometimes loud) drone of the diesel, and the time to myself. Doing a groundfish contract is like completing a tough semester at school. You may be tired, worn out, ready for a break, but you did it, and there’s a great sense of accomplishment, PLUS, money in the bank!